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Balvanera
Neighborhood
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Its
Limits: Entre Rios avenue, Callao
avenue, Sánchez de Bustamante street, Loria street, Corrientes
avenue, Cordoba avenue, Pueyrredon avenue and Rivadavia avenue.
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Important places:
Once, Abasto and Congreso
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When the city
of Buenos Aires joined the Congreso neighborhood, the Abasto
neighborhood and the Once neighborhood, it was to unite those
“central neighborhoods” in only one, that would be called as the
same as the “Nuestra Señora de Balvanera” (“Our Lady of Balvanera”)
parish , located in 2431 Bartolomé Mitre street.
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The neighborhood, is usually traveled over for
any tourist; Corrientes avenue, Florida street, Mayo avenue are
significant for the city for being the most picturesque.
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We can find universities, shoppings mall, parks,
and obviously the history of the most important tango protagonists.
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It also exists the other side of Buenos Aires,
the most popular, located in Pueyrredon avenue, in Plaza Miserere
(“Miserere Park”) or Once. Germinal Nogues described it better than
nobody: “Buenos Aires does not have a place that seems more to
Latino America, more to any Latino American city, that those few
blocks that surround the Miserere Park...”
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In Once,
different transports flow (train, subway and bus lines) that make
it a concurred place, besides being one of the most important
wholesale shopping center.
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The “Plaza de los Dos Congresos” (“The two
Congresses Park”) and the Plaza Once (“Eleven Park”) are the
representatives of the neighborhood, and generally is common to call
all the zone as Congress Neighborhood or Eleven Neighborhood, but in
the official nomenclature they are not separated.
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In the Park center is found the Bernardino
Rivadavia mausoleum, declared in 1946, National Historic Monument.
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The park is a transit place for workers, to there
arrives the line “A” subway and the Sarmiento railroad.
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Near the park, is found the famous school Mariano
Acosta (1874), where people like Julio Cortazar, Julio Argentino
Roca, Leopoldo Marechal, Enrique Santos Discepolo, among others,
studied.
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We can
remember in Pichincha street the old Doria Theater, with
successful lyric music periods and also the Anselmi circus (1896),
wrestling championships, and the most various spectacles
billboard. After the Doria Theater, the Marconi Theater appeared,
the majority of its audience were Italians that also worked in the
Spinetto market (actually a shopping). From 1970 it was converted
in the “Armando Discepolo” Theater. Close to it, in 2330 Rivadavia
Avenue, it is found the coffee store that helped Discepolo to
create the famous tango “Cafetin de Buenos Aires” (“Buenos Aires
Little Coffee”).
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A long time ago, across the Spinetto, passed the
Manso stream, and a project was summarized in 1894 by David Spineto.
Initially, the market, was dedicated to sell vegetables and fruits,
exclusively to wholesalers, and after a fire, it also included the
sold of clothes. Complementary locals also existed: Matheu and
Moreno.
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The Congress and
its outskirts
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In the old
corner of Rivadavia avenue and Rincon street, still remains the
echoes of the “Café de los Angelitos” (“Angels Coffee”), currently
it is being restored, but time ago it was one of the most
recognized Buenos Aires coffees. It attended people like Gardel,
José Razzano, Gabino Ezeiza and José Bettinotti. In this coffee
born the tango that carries its name composed by Castillo and
Razzano.
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I evoke
you, lost in the life,
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and
entangled in the threads of the smoke,
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set
against a pleasing memory that I smoke
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and to
this black cup of coffee.
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Rivadavia
and Rincón! ... Old corner
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of the
antique friendship that returns,
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flirting
its grey on the table that is
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meditating
in its yesterday nights.
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I make you
happy with my shouts
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Founded, in
1890 with the name “Rivadavia Bar”, its owner was an Italian
called Batista Fazio. At first it was a coffee of criminals. In
1919 when it began to be famous for the figures of Gabino, Higinio
Cazón, José Betinotti, José Razzano, Carlos Gardel, Roberto
Cassaux, Florencio Parravicini, among others it was acquired by
Angel Salgueiro.
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It was exactly in this coffee where, in 1917, the
Odeón seal artistic director, Mauricio Goddart made an agreement
with a native famous duet Gardel-Razzano. In this manner they could
be listened in the disk “Cantar Eterno” (“Eternal Sing”) and “El Sol
del 25” (“The ´25 sun”).
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According to the daily Página 12 (“Twelve Page”),
the Coffee new restoration:
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“The new “Café de los Angelitos” (“Angels
Coffee”) will not be the same, simply because the old one was
demolished in the past December. Therefore, the businessmen that
bought the uncultivated land of 600 square meters will raise walls
of 9 meters height, almost the double one of the original model. It
is that the 2002 version of the classical bar will have three
levels, two on the surface and another one subterranean.”
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Among the
most significant buildings we can find “El Molino” (“The Mill”)
coffee store of 1860, “El Club Ateneo de la Juventud” (“The Youth
Literary Society Club”) ubicated in 165 Riobamba street.
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Luckily the Buenos Aires city has many buildings
with history, as these two bars, but unfortunately we suffer from
seen them in its decadence. “The Mill Coffee Store”, located in
Callao avenue and Rivadavia avenue, continues being an outstanding
account since it continues walled up.
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In the house that remains in 137 Rincon street,
lived Carlitos Gardel. The Balvanera neighborhood also knew the
summit epoch of the tenement houses located in the streets next to
the Congress (Mexico street, Alsina street, Sarandi street).
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The Sanitary Works building, located in Cordoba
avenue, Riobamba street, Viamonte street and Ayacucho street was
built, by the architect Carlos Nyströmer, to store 73.000.000 liters
of water approximately. With a baroque style, overload of
decoration, the building is done with European material.
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These are all spaces that form part of the city
history and they are very loved by the people. The neighbors,
besides all, remember them with a lot of affection. We hope that,
these buildings, monuments, parks, will continue conserving as time
ago, or in any case that they would be recovered.
Marinha Villalobos
Alejandro Cigliano |